Just as Washington’s restaurant scene hits its stride, so has our craving for something sweet to top off a meal. Pastry chefs are seriously coming into their own, and our sweet tooth is cruising for a cavity as dessert explodes—and stands on its own, in some cases—in the capital dining scene. We chatted with rogue pie man Rodney Henry of recently opened Dangerously Delicious Pies on H Street (by way of his Baltimore mother ship) and Heather Chittum of Hook, whose pastry genius has been recognized nationally.
Washington Flyer to Rodney: Why pies?
Rodney Henry: Pie is where it’s at, man. It’s a wholesome, all-American thing. It’s something I’ve been doing my whole life, and it came to me when I was on the road with my band [the Glenmont Popes]. When I’d come home from a tour, I’d bring pies over to people’s houses as a gift. Then I started taking pies to coffee shops to have some money to take a girl out on a date. I thought, “I have to start making pies for a living.”
WF: Heather, you’re a former Hill staffer. How did you get started in the pastry business?
Heather Chittum: The catalyst was working with Share Our Strength [an anti-hunger organization] and the different chefs around the country. I went to a pastry-chef event in D.C., and I was talking to people about switching careers. I ended up talking to one chef about doing an externship and enrolled in L’Academie de Cuisine’s Fundamentals of Pastry Arts 20-week program, and it wasn’t long before I was talking to Todd and Ellen Gray from Equinox about quitting my job and coming to work there as a pastry assistant.
WF: What’s your all-time favorite dessert?
RH: Apple pie straight out of the oven. You let it cool off a couple minutes and tear it up.
HC: Anything with fruit. I do have a special place in my heart for good apple pie. It’s basic and American, but I love it.
WF: Speaking of signature desserts—we know yours is pie, Rodney, but what about you, Heather?
HC: Lingonberry linzertorte with Taleggio cheese ice cream. It’s not overly sweet, and it’s my take on a cheese course; you have the fruit, the cheese ice cream and the nuts.
WF: What are your secrets for great crust?
RH: Don’t overwork it and don’t add too much water. Add water as you go, take your time and don’t freak out.
HC: It depends on what you’re making and what your filling is. A lot of people would say flakiness, but it’s not always that. For a pie it would be flakiness, but for the linzertorte, the nuts add flavor and another component to the filling.
WF: What’s your favorite D.C. restaurant?
RH: Citronelle is awesome. Also, the sushi guy at Sticky Rice, Tommy, does some pretty interesting things with fish.
HC: Montmartre, Palena and Restaurant Eve are fantastic. I just had a bunch of Nathan Anda’s sopressata and other meats he’s doing at Red Apron—it’s incredible when someone is so passionate about something.
WF: Cupcake joints are everywhere, and the lines are out the door. As industry insiders, can you give us a few words on the cupcake trend?
RH: Cupcakes are overrated.
HC: Cupcakes, really?
WF: Ha! Touché. So apple pie is in, cupcakes are out. One last question—how do you like to wash down your dessert?
RH: Milk, coffee, beer, whiskey—whatever. Whiskey and beer go really good with pie, sweet or savory.
HC: It depends—everything or anything—nothing, depending on what it is. Anything goes, from coffee and milk to bourbon and bubbles.
Dangerously Delicious Pies, 1339 H St., NE; 202/398-PIES; dangerouspies.com
Hook, 3241 M St., NW; 202/625-4488; hookdc.com