Boston has always exuded its own brand of cool, a sort of understated geek-chic unconcerned with its slave-to-fashion neighbor 200 miles south (except, that is, when the Red Sox play the Yankees). After all, this is the Hub of the Universe, or so Oliver Wendell Holmes claimed. Now that vibe has been embodied in three new hotels—each wicked hip in its own way.
At the Ames Hotel (1 Court St.; 617/979-8100; ameshotel.com; rates from $195), I’m greeted by a “mirror chandelier” installation fashioned from thousands of reflective disks suspended from the lobby’s original mosaic barrel-vaulted ceiling—just one of the modern flourishes playfully juxtaposed with the historical details of this Romanesque Revival landmark.

Opened last fall by the Morgans Hotel Group—of Royalton New York and Mondrian L.A. fame—the 114-room Ames is strategically situated a stone’s throw from the Freedom Trail, a 2.5-mile path that links the city’s most historic sites from Boston Common to Bunker Hill Monument.
After getting your history fix, sink into one of the leather banquettes at the hotel’s lively Woodward Tavern for an Ames Addiction, a house concoction of Ron Zacapa 23 rum, vermouth and ginger liqueur, and a steaming bowl of chef Mark Goldberg’s bouillabaisse, teeming with clams, mussels, shrimp and local market fish. The best room amenity? A growler of Woodward’s own ale, brewed by Portsmouth, N.H., craft brewer Smuttynose.
Across the Charles River in Cambridge, the Hotel Veritas (1 Remington St., 617/520-5000; thehotelveritas.com), named after Harvard University’s motto, is perfectly positioned to cater to Crimson parents and visitors. But even if your kid didn’t make the cut, staying on Boston’s Left Bank, as Cantabrigians call it, still offers a parade of diversions. Besides the world’s largest concentration of bookstores, live music clubs abound, and some of the area’s most coveted dining reservations are at local faves Craigie on Main, Oleana, Salts Restaurant and Ten Tables.
Back at the eastern end of Harvard Square, unwind from all that bookstore browsing with a glass of wine and a light snack around the fire at the inn’s very civilized Simple Truth Lounge. The 30-room independent hotel is a reconstruction of a private residence (circa 1880s) and stables that stood on the site. The feel is old-school New England elegance—brocade fabrics, detailed molding and woodwork, 13-foot windows and a limestone lobby floor reclaimed from a French chateau—meets cool Cantabrigian vibe. There’s free wireless, of course, and flat-screen high-def TVs in guest rooms, along with fresh flowers, custom Anichini bed linens and robes, and Etro bath amenities.
Back in the Hub (Holmes’ moniker really caught on with Bostonians), the theater district now holds the boutique chain W’s first foray into New England—a 235-room all-glass affair with sweeping vistas of the skyline and the Charles River. Taking a cue from nearby Boston Common and Public Garden, the designers of W Boston (100 Stuart St.; 617/261-8700; starwoodhotels.com/whotels; rates from $229) have integrated elements of nature throughout, from the falling water in the Living Room (W-speak for lobby) to a modern “fireplace” meant to provide a welcoming beacon of light across the city’s skyline.
The hotel’s debut late last year marked the return of chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who first came to the U.S. to open Boston’s Lafayette (and recently opened J&G Steakhouse at the W Hotel in D.C.). A sleek space done in muted grays and browns, Market features a menu that draws inspiration from Asia, France and Italy but is sourced largely from New England farms and fishermen. Top off miso-yuzu broth and soy-glazed short ribs with apple-jalapeño puree and rosemary crumbs with a nightcap at hotel bar Descent, where superstar mixologist Sasha Petraske’s cocktails borrow from Jazz Age classics.
Of course, W brings its signature “Whatever/Whenever” service to its Boston outpost, boasting that its 24-hour concierge will procure anything a guest craves as long as it’s legal, from fetching those boots you were eyeing on Newbury Street to arranging for a private jet. Hello, Fenway!
Peer into the world of wizards at Harry Potter: The Exhibition, featuring more than 200 authentic props and costumes from the Harry Potter films. At the Museum of Science through Feb. 21. (mos.org; 671/723-2500; adults, $26, kids, $23)
Unlock the Secrets of Tomb 10A: Egypt 2000 BC discovered by Museum of Fine Arts archaeologists in 1915. At the MFA through May 16. (mfa.org; 617/267-9300; adults, $20; $7.50 for kids ages 7–17)
Toast the 21st anniversary of the Boston Wine Festival, the nation’s oldest wine and food series, at the Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, Jan. 8 through April 2. (bostonwinefestival.net; $145)
Daily nonstop flights to Boston are available on United and JetBlue from Washington Dulles Airport, and on American, Delta and US Airways from Reagan National Airport.
Two nonstop destinations from Washington Dulles worth checking out this winter.
1 San Diego

Do It: Whale-watching adventure via the Birch Aquarium. Sure, most whale watchers speak in hushed tones about the spiritual Everest that comes from witnessing the world’s largest mammals in their migratory haunt, but don’t overlook how amazing it is to simply watch grays the size of mini-malls play tag in the Pacific tub. Our picks for whale gawking include a four-day Weekend Whale Adventure (Feb. 12–15) and a five-day Whale Watch Safari (Feb. 17–21, March 24–28). Tours visit the Baja California coast, Scammon’s Lagoon (breeding and calving grounds for gray whales) and salt marshes, and there’s even a colorful trek to the Vizcaino Desert to discover prehistoric cave paintings. Details: aquarium.ucsd.edu; 858/534-3474.

Dine Here: Cucina Urbana. Call it hard-times chic. Ever-mellow San Diegans are anything but when it comes to this new hot spot in the Banker’s Hill hood adjacent to Balboa Park, where nothing on the menu breaches $20. Sure, chef Joe Magnanelli offers the requisite farm-to-table fare, but he’s doing the city proud with Italian regional dishes. Our favorites: porcini mushroom ravioli with Tahitian squash purée, and braised black cod with pistachio-caper crust. We also like the selection of California and Italian reds and the cocktails infused with locally grown fruit. Details: sdurbankitchen.com; 619/239-2222.
Stay Here: Loews Coronado Bay Resort. Test-drive an Italian trip by getting a taste of Venice—and a massage—aboard a legit 33-foot Venetian gondola. The new Voga Voyage from Loews features his-and-hers massage tables, a soothing 40-minute cruise through the waterways of the Coronado Cays, and complimentary strawberries and champagne. The scenic rubdown departs from the resort’s private marina. Details: loewshotels.com; 619/424-4000.
Don’t Miss: Stephen Sondheim’s Broadway classic A Little Night Music, Feb. 12–21 at Lyric Opera, featuring “A Weekend in the Country” and “In Praise of Women.” Details: lyricoperasandiego.org; 619/239-8836.
More Info: sandiego.org
2 Austin
Do It: Tour Mandola Estate Winery. The setting (hill country, stretching out 20 acres on a slope above Onion Creek in Driftwood) feels more like Tuscany, and the public and private tours feature tasting rooms, hard-to-find Italian foods and hosts who are passionate about their craft. Details: mandolawines.com; 512/894-3111.
Dine Here: Olivia. This French-inspired restaurant hasn’t sat idly after its glowing debut press—the imaginative menu changes daily and regularly features such fare as barbecue-grilled Mediterranean branzini and Kobe skirt steak and frites. New taste experiences abound. Details: olivia-austin.com; 512/804-2700.
Stay Here: Aloft. Slick, urbane and unlike any other sleep spot in the capital city, the breakthrough boutique concept from Starwood Hotels is walking distance from Austin’s music scene and restaurants. Enjoy the XYZbar, Re:charge fitness center and light-filled guestrooms featuring rainfall showerheads and Bliss spa bath amenities. Details: starwoodhotels.com; 512/491-0777.

Don’t Miss: Desire at the Blanton Museum, Feb. 5 through April 25, featuring a provocative roster of international artists whose work explores everything from infatuation to whimsy. Video works, painting, sculpture and other media showcase the enduring tug of human emotion. Details: blantonmuseum.org; 512/471-7324.
More Info: austintexas.org
— Michael McCarthy

