Georgetown along the C&O Canal
Fri, Aug 20, 2010
D.C.'s Best Neighborhoods
From Georgetown to Bethesda, our favorite spots around town.
By Rachel Machacek and Chloe Thompson
Georgetown
Dolcezza (1560 Wisconsin Ave., NW; 202/333-4646; dolcezzagelato.com)
The owners of this Argentinean-style gelateria make concoctions with ingredients sourced from local farmers. Unexpected flavors such as avocado mingle with old standbys, such as the smoothest dulce de leche you’ve ever tasted. Make room for at least three scoops and a churro to dip in them.
Tackle Box (3245 M St., NW; 202/337-8269: tackleboxrestaurant.com)
It’s a lobster shack in the middle of Georgetown’s main drag serving lobster rolls and many other sustainable catches of the sea. Belly up to the picnic tables—it’s all about the beach here—on Wednesday for half-price taco day (the fish tacos are some of the best around).
Tugooh Toys (1419 Wisconsin Ave., NW; 202/333-0032; yirostores.com)
The building blocks and trains here all nod to a nostalgic time when children’s toys were wooden and handcrafted, not buzzing, whizzing or singing at you. They’re also eco-friendly and educational.
Random Harvest (1313 Wisconsin Ave., NW; 202/333-5569; randomharvesthome.com)
Rustic and antique pieces are the specialties here, but new items round out the rotating stock of home décor that includes delicate iron bed frames and roll-top desks that make a statement.
Jinx Proof Tattoos (3285 1/2 M St., NW; 202/337-5469; jinx prooftattoos.com)
The style here is more artistic than jailhouse, and if the call for body art hits, this place will keep it classy. (If you glimpsed an exquisite tattoo on the forearm of one of your servers while dining out in the city, there’s a decent chance it came from here.)
Ching Ching Cha (1063 Wisconsin Ave., NW; 202/333-8288; chingchingcha.com)
Kick off your shoes and stay a while at this Chinese teahouse with low tables and floor seating (regular seating, too). Aficionados will appreciate the selection of more than 70 kinds of tea, and everyone can bask in the space’s calming chi over bento boxes.
The Kreeger Museum (2401 Foxhall Rd., NW; 202/337-3050; kreegermuseum.org)
A private residence turned museum, this contemporary mansion tucked off Foxhall Road has an unparalleled collection of 19th- and 20th-century paintings and sculpture by the likes of Monet, van Gogh, Picasso, Renoir, Cezanne and Rodin, as well as local artists.
Fletcher’s Boathouse (4940 Canal Rd., NW; 202/244-0461; fletchersboathouse.com)
Canoes, kayaks, row boats, fishing poles, bikes—Fletcher’s Boathouse, at the head of the Capital Crescent Trail and just a few blocks off Wisconsin Avenue, has pretty much everything you need for a day in nature. If nothing else, stop in for an ice-cream sandwich.
Dupont Circle
Farmer’s Market (1500 block of 20th Street, NW; 202/362-8889; fresh farmmarket.org/markets)
The white tents just north of the circle on Sunday morning indicate the farmers are in and the goods are local. The produce is perfectly ripe and seasonally appropriate—don’t miss croissants from Bonaparte Breads and the crab cakes at Chris’ Marketplace.
Biagio Fine Chocolate (1904 18th St., NW; 202/328-1506; biagiochoco late.com)
Tucked away from the sidewalk and down a set of stairs, Biagio is worth a step off 18th Street for the fine chocolates from all over the globe. Taste test, buy a gift box or just learn a little from the enthusiastic team who will teach you all about how to taste chocolate. (Rub a little between your fingers to release the scent.)
Proper Topper (1350 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202/842-3055; propertopper.com)
As the name implies, it has great hats, as well as lovely women’s clothing (Nanette Lepore, anyone?), jewels, art books and gift items. There’s a kids’ section, too, with the cutest onesies you’ve ever seen.
Red Onion Records and Books (1901 18th St., NW; 202/986-2718; redonionrecordsand books.com)
Teeny-tiny tucked-away shop with a truly diverse and wonderful used-books selection—every book you’ve wanted to read is here. A similarly thoughtful variety of records makes up the second part of the collection.
Kramerbooks & Afterwords Cafe (1517 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202/387-1400; kramers.com)
The line for the café at brunch is worth it for the waffles alone—and you can read while you wait. The bookstore is the main draw, stacked with a smart collection of titles, including children’s books and fun gift ideas.
Green and Blue (1350 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202/223-6644; greenand bluestyle.com)
Jewelry by co-owner Daniela Cermanova is the draw to this men’s and women’s clothing boutique—you’ll love the things she can do with amethyst and feathers (seriously). Custom-made clothing, and the shop carries great designer labels.
The Mansion on O Street (2020 O St., NW; 202/496-2020; omansion.com)
There’s a sort of quirky clutter at this B&B that hosts a Sunday buffet brunch with enough food and variety to satisfy anyone. Anyone. It’s also a concert venue and hosts special events with names such as O’Dinnertini on Monday. (That’s “dinner and drinks” to you.)
Rogue States (1300 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202/296-2242; aburgergrillingcompany.com)
Anything open at 4 a.m. in D.C. is a bit of a novelty, so Rogue States’ 1/2-pound burgers strike just the right chord. They’re cooked pink or no-pink; season them with black truffle oil or curry.
Tabletop (1608 20th St., NW; 202/387-7117; tabletopdc.com)
Modern home goods are the reason to visit, whether for the perfect housewarming gift or something to spice up your own place. A broad range of prices appeals to a crowd. Find everything from sleek vases and high-end hobo bags to handmade jewelry and owl mobiles. And cute stationery, of course.
U Street & Logan Circle
Cork Market and Tasting Room (1805 14th St., NW; 202/265-2674; corkdc.com)
The younger sister of Cork Wine Bar, this gourmet market has a little bit of everything. In addition to a pristine wine selection, you’ll find ratatouille, fresh sandwiches (the pressed veggie is a favorite) and full meals, including braised short ribs. Try the macaroons, or one of many other confections, for dessert.
ACKC (1529C 14th St., NW; 202/387-2626; thecocoagallery.com)
The owners take chocolate very seriously. There are individual chocolates behind glass cases, boxes of chocolate, chocolate spa products and chocolate voodoo dolls. Go for one of “The Divas,” a collection of spirited hot cocoas and milkshakes.
HR-57 Center for the Preservation of Jazz and Blues (1610 14th St., NW; 202/667-3700; hr57.org)
With chair seating by the stage and a few couches and tables in the back, this music and cultural center is a platform for new and established talent. For the rest of us, it’s a relaxed spot to listen to some tunes with a date. BYOB.
Redeem (1734 14th St., NW; 202/332-7447; redeemus.com)
Urban couture for men and women in a minimalist, warehouse space. Hard-to-find denim labels (Earnest Sewn), edgy tees and button-downs and spirited accessories round out the hip collection with just a hint of rock-star edge.
Ben’s Chili Bowl (1213 U St., NW; 202/667-0909; benschilibowl.com)
This is a D.C. institution (in case the “Washington Landmark” sign up front doesn’t give it away). Half-smokes, chili fries—it even has veggie chili. Russell Crowe filmed here. Obama visited (to much fanfare) and continues to make the trip.
Pulp (1803 14th St., NW; 202/462-7857; pulpdc.com)
Kitschy candles, soaps, books, baby apparel and a range of (sometimes inappropriate) cards for any and all occasions make this shop a get-out-of-jail-free card for belated or last-minute gifts.
Miss Pixie’s Furnishings and Whatnot (1626 14th St., NW; 202/232-8171; misspixies.com)
Get lost in the glorious clutter of antique and vintage pieces, as well as some reproductions. Tabletops crammed with wild finds, rows of lamps, and many other surprising offerings change regularly to provide a mix that’s as eclectic as it gets.
The Gibson (2009 14th St., NW; 202/232-2156; thegibsondc.com)
The drinks are as vintage as the dim, candlelit décor at this swank “speakeasy” set in a nondescript building with no sign, of course. Make a reservation—everyone gets a seat because there’s a no-standing rule—order a Sazerac and relax to the chill music.
Transformer Gallery (1404 P St., NW; 202/483-1102; transformer gallery.org)
This small, hip venue for emerging artists, many local, takes its name to heart. The gallery is literally transformed with each artist’s site-specific installations to challenge the concept of space, form and visual arts.
Penn Quarter
Teaism (400 8th St., NW; 202/638-6010; tea ism.com)
Three words: salty oat cookies. ’Nuff said. Of course, there are many delicate tea varieties here, as well as Asian-inspired noodle soups and entrées. It’s healthy comfort food.
Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company (641 D St., NW; 202/393-3939; woollymammoth.net)
This 265-seat, courtyard-style theater has a research-and-development role of sorts; plays premiered here have gone on to productions at more than 200 theaters in 39 states and 12 countries. The productions are innovative, edgy and accessible to the public, with pay-what-you-can performances and $15 “stampede seats.”
Taylor Gourmet (485 K St., NW; taylorgourmet.com)
The bread is brought in daily from Philly to this hoagie shop, where the owners roast turkeys in-house and make the pesto, risotto balls and mozzarella sticks from scratch. There’s a Boylan’s soda fountain and gelato in the freezer.
Passenger (1021 7th St., NW; 202/393-0220; passengerdc.com)
The lights are low, the cocktails are handcrafted (try a Martinez, the original martini), and the servers wear black tees emblazoned with the slogan “God Save the District.” The concept works, and you will not be disappointed by the run of eclectic tunes that blare through the long and narrow space.
Full Kee (509 H St., NW; 202/371-2233; fullkeedc.com)
Small, divey joint serving authentic Chinese food in Chinatown. (There are ducks in the window, and you won’t find General Tso’s chicken on the menu.) The food is standout, making it a neighborhood favorite.
Long View Gallery (1234 9th St., NW; 202/232-4788; longviewgallery.com)
The 5,000-square-foot space is host to the Washington area’s burgeoning art community. The curators promote local and regional artists through special events and monthly exhibitions, as well as a growing permanent collection. The staff also offers design consultations, delivery and access to in-house master framing.
Goethe-Institut (812 7th St., NW; 202/289-1200; goethe.de/washington)
A hot spot for film, theater, music and visual arts in the German tradition, as well as cross-cultural literary collaborations (book clubs), German language classes and political and social discussions of Germany and the world at large.
Sixth & I Historic Synagogue (600 I St., NW; 202/408-3100; sixthandi.org)
Surprising music venue that’s intimate and hushed and has sublime acoustics for its wonderful lineup of musicians. The space has the small, community feel of a neighborhood coffee shop, and there are a number of special programs in addition to regular Sunday service and trivia night on Monday.
Civilian Art Projects (1019 7th St., NW; 202/607-3804; civilianartprojects.com)
One of D.C.’s newest galleries, it fancies itself “gnawing at the edges of contemporary aesthetic discourse.” Set three stories up in Chinatown, it’s an energetic space that, like many new art venues, supports up-and-coming artists working in a broad range of media.
Adams Morgan
Tryst (2459 18th St., NW; 202/232-5500; trystdc.com)
The couches are comfy, the coffee is strong, and most people are only pretending to work behind their laptops. Free Wi-Fi during the week, afternoon and late-night happy hours, live music throughout the week and scrumptious hummus make this a neighborhood hot spot at all hours.
Mercedes Bien Vintage (2423 18th St., NW; 202/360-8481)
One of the best vintage shops in the city with a carefully selected collection that spans several decades and features gorgeous cocktail dresses and divine coats. This is the place to find a keepsake garment.
Idle Time Books (2467 18th St., NW; 202/232-4774; idletimebooks.com)
Used books and old records span two levels with minimal organization, lending itself to browsing and stumbling upon the unexpected. It’s a great way to enjoy a lazy weekend afternoon. There’s a nice collection of cards and postcards, too.
Habana Village (1834 Columbia Rd., NW; 202/462-6310; habanavillage.com)
When it comes to an authentic salsa dancing experience, this Cuban dance club (and restaurant) is it. The music is live, the mojitos are spot on, and dance partners are plentiful. You’ll find salsa lessons throughout the week for all levels. No partner necessary.
Amsterdam Falafel (2425 18th St., NW; 202/234-1969; falafelshop.com)
In the land of the late-night jumbo slice, this falafel shop rises to the top of 3 a.m. eats. With small and large order sizes and white-on-white décor, it’s a study in practicality and minimalism, but the fixings bar and French fries are the cherries on top.
Hinckley Pottery Studio (1707 Kalorama Rd., NW; 202/745-7055; hinckleypottery.com)
Take pottery classes or browse and buy local art at this privately owned urban studio, gallery and shop in the heart of the city. Owner and resident potter Jillian Hinkley has an Asian aesthetic fused with early American style that makes for lovely gifts.
So’s Your Mom (1831 Columbia Rd., NW; 202/462-3666)
Some say this deli and sandwich shop has the best bagels in the city. We like it for its name alone, along with some hard-to-find gourmet European treats, such as English biscuits, on the single wall of shelves. Stock up on coffee while you’re here, and bring cash.
The Brass Knob Architectural Antiques (2311 18th St., NW; 202/332-3370; thebrass knob.com)
Doorknobs are only part of the story here. Discover one-of-a-kind period antiques, including vintage hardware, mantels and gorgeous stained-glass windows, in this 3,000-square-foot rummage sale of architectural finds.
Toro Mata (2410 18th St., NW; 202/232-3890)
It started as a stand at Eastern Market before settling on 18th Street to hawk Peruvian gifts, home décor and some clothing—there’s lots of gorgeous alpaca. Traditional pieces include chulucanas pots, carved leather coffee tables and wildly authentic art.
Old Town Alexandria
Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Museum (105-107 S. Fairfax St.; 703/746-3852; apoth ecarymuseum.org)
This two-story museum houses more than 8,000 objects, including hand-blown medicine bottles, period apothecary furniture from the original storeowners and preserved ledgers bearing famous sigs such as Martha Washington and Robert E. Lee.
Torpedo Factory (105 N. Union St.; 703/838-4565; torpedo factory.org)
Visitors are introduced to 82 working studios, original art for sale, six ever-changing galleries and tons of art classes for finger painters and Picassos alike.
Mint Condition (114 S. Royal St.; 703/836-6468)
As the name suggests, everything in this consignment store is in pristine shape. From upscale designer divas (yes, Manolo Blahniks) to affordable J. Crew, the store caters to the fashionista within.
P/X (Above Eammon’s at 728 King St.; 703/299-8385)
Semi-private rooms present a romantic setting and an alternative to the central bar, while cocktails served by mixologist Todd Thrasher never disappoint in creativity and flavor. Tip for visitors: A blue light outside gives you a green light to step inside.
Mystique Jewelers of Old Town (211 The Strand; 703/836-1401; mystiquejewelers.com)
Wild, offbeat finds—check out your gem of choice at this designer jewelry spot for a special occasion or for your next everyday piece.
Clarendon
Arlington Arts Center (3550 Wilson Blvd.; 703/248-6800; arling tonartscenter.org)
This contemporary nonprofit art space houses frequently changing exhibits, classes and 13 resident artists who will answer questions about their exhibits.
Screwtop (1025 N. Fillmore St.; 703/888-0845; screwtopwine bar.com)
Find local vino, brews, delicious cheeses and charcuterie at this hip new Clarendon wine bar.
Boccato Gelato (2719 Wilson Blvd.; 703/869-6522; boccato.com)
We love the cake-batter-flavored confection in this gelato store. Look for tropical flavors when summer kicks in.
Galaxy Hut (2711 Wilson Blvd.; 703/525-8646; galaxyhut.com)
The 50-plus brews are out of this world, but come here to relive your jukebox days and video-game cravings with cocktail arcade tables. Live music every Sunday and Monday night.
Clarendon Farmer’s Market (Clarendon Metro station, 3100 Wilson Blvd.)
Every Wednesday from 2–7 p.m., stop by to browse the bounty from local farmers. Non-foodies can snatch up cute soaps, jewelry or other knickknacks from vendors, too.
Bethesda, Md.
L’Academie de Cuisine (5021 Wilson Lane; 301/986-9490; lacademie.com)
Learn from the pros at this cooking school during live demonstrations (with vino and recipes upon arrival) or hands-on culinary lessons to impress your dinner guests. Sign up for an international cuisine course to get a taste of how the other side of the globe fares.
Daisy Too and Zelaya (4940 St. Elmo Ave.; 301/656-8550; zelayashoes.com)
Two stores—one for your bod and one for your feet—reside here. Zelaya carries fun shoe brands such as Betsey Johnson and Chinese Laundry; Daisy Too features discounted couture. Two minutes away is Daisy Baby, carrying clothes for the little ones, too.
The Waygoose (4848 Bethesda Ave.; 301/656-1768; thewaygoose.com)
Part gallery, part shop, you’ll find abstract silver jewelry, pottery and other must-haves from American artists.
Imagination Stage (4908 Auburn Ave.; 301/280-1660; imaginationstage.org)
Ever wish life could be one big fairytale? Get engrossed in story time during any of Imagination Stage’s plays.
Washington School of Photography (4850 Rugby Ave.; 301/654-1998;
wsp-photo.com)
Shutterbugs, don’t miss this haven for photography pros and beginners, founded in 1976.
Cacao (7129 Bethesda Ln.; 301/215-6945; chocolatebycacao.com)
If it came from here, death by chocolate wouldn’t be such a bad thing. This new shop carries 60 flavors of quality European chocolates, other delectable Parisian desserts (try the macaroons) and sweet beverages.
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