Sandoval's opened El Centro D.F. this year. The restaurant focuses on traditional (and simple) Mexican cuisine.

Chef Richard Sandoval Goes Back to Culinary Roots

Chef Richard Sandoval’s latest restaurant, El Centro D.F. (elcentrodf.com) on 14th Street, NW, is as multilayered as Mexican cuisine. A taquería sits on the main floor, and the basement holds a tequilería with 200 tequilas. Oh, and the rooftop ties these elements together under the stars. The menu, which Sandoval describes as Mexican “comfort food,” includes tacos, tostadas, empanadas (pictured), tamales, and enchiladas inspired by his grandmother's cooking.  

Washington Flyer: How is the new place allowing you to stretch as a chef?

Richard Sandoval: We had one of the worst recessions, and people are going back to their roots—things that make us comfortable. I want people to be in a place that is fun, casual, where there’s music, and savor “market” food.  

WF: Some “authentic” Mexican food restaurants in D.C. haven’t delivered on their promise. How is your place different?

RS: These are traditional recipes that are in my blood. I’m not reinventing anything or creating anything new. This is food I grew up eating in Mexico at my grandmother’s house based on authentic recipes. My two chefs here are Mexican. 

WF: Your biggest culinary influence?

RS: I was born and raised in Mexico City, and my grandmother [was] one of the biggest influences in my formation as a chef, of my palate before I knew I was going to be a chef. Being Latin, we were always surrounded by food.

WF: Signature dish?

RS: Ceviche.

VH/WF: Indispensable kitchen tool?

RS: The hand blender. It’s very diverse. If you make a sauce, you have to prepare it, put it in the blender. With this, you can go straight from the pot where you put the ingredients to puree, to make sauces, to emulsify them.

WF: Essential ingredient?

RS: Chilies. It’s a diverse ingredient with more than 100 varieties. You can roast it, pan-fry it, or use it fresh and dry. In each case, it will have a very distinct flavor. My style of cooking is about balance, and when we talk about palate, I always need some heat, some spice and sweetness. Chilies hit all that, which is why it's my favorite ingredient.

WF: How has the growth of the Latino population impacted American cuisine?

RS: The American palate changed dramatically over the past 10 years. For example, salsa surpassed ketchup sales. Americans want bolder flavors. Before, people were used to less sophisticated food. Today, throughout the country, people want more flavors, heat and uniqueness in what they're tasting. Today, Latin cuisine is what French and Italian cuisine was 10 or 12 years ago.

WF: Your favorite D.C. restaurants?

RS: Kaz Sushi Bistro is one of my favorite sushi places. Estadio does a very nice job with tapas. Zaytinya I like a lot. 

WF: D.C.’s food ranking in comparison to other U.S. cities?

RS: A 9. I think Washington is a little New York. [We have] the government, the embassies, the consulates—you find people from all over the world. It's almost like a melting pot. People like to eat out and entertain. I think that drives all the chefs to be creative. It attracts more chefs and drives everyone to be competitive and on the cutting edge of what we do. D.C. is definitely up there with some of the best food cities in the country.