Sweet Stuff: Dessert Trends in Washington

Heather Chittum is the pastry genius at Hook, and she will appear on Bravo's "Just Desserts" this fall. 

Sweet Stuff: Dessert Trends in Washington

Two pastry chefs talk trade, pies and how absolutely overrated cupcakes are.

By Rachel Machacek

Just as Washington’s restaurant scene hits its stride, so has our craving for something sweet to top off a meal. Pastry chefs are seriously coming into their own, and our sweet tooth is cruising for a cavity as dessert explodes—and stands on its own, in some cases—in the capital dining scene. We chatted with rogue pie man Rodney Henry of recently opened Dangerously Delicious Pies on H Street (by way of his Baltimore mother ship) and Heather Chittum of Hook, whose pastry genius has been recognized nationally.

Washington Flyer to Rodney: Why pies?

rodney henry dangerously delicious piesRodney Henry: Pie is where it’s at, man. It’s a wholesome, all-American thing. It’s something I’ve been doing my whole life, and it came to me when I was on the road with my band [the Glenmont Popes]. When I’d come home from a tour, I’d bring pies over to people’s houses as a gift. Then I started taking pies to coffee shops to have some money to take a girl out on a date. I thought, “I have to start making pies for a living.”

WF: Heather, you’re a former Hill staffer. How did you get started in the pastry business?

Heather Chittum: The catalyst was working with Share Our Strength [an anti-hunger organization] and the different chefs around the country. I went to a pastry-chef event in D.C., and I was talking to people about switching careers. I ended up talking to one chef about doing an externship and enrolled in L’Academie de Cuisine’s Fundamentals of Pastry Arts 20-week program, and it wasn’t long before I was talking to Todd and Ellen Gray from Equinox about quitting my job and coming to work there as a pastry assistant.

WF: What’s your all-time favorite dessert?

RH: Apple pie straight out of the oven. You let it cool off a couple minutes and tear it up.

HC: Anything with fruit. I do have a special place in my heart for good apple pie. It’s basic and American, but I love it.

WF: Speaking of signature desserts—we know yours is pie, Rodney, but what about you, Heather?

HC: Lingonberry linzertorte with Taleggio cheese ice cream. It’s not overly sweet, and it’s my take on a cheese course; you have the fruit, the cheese ice cream and the nuts.

WF: What are your secrets for great crust?

RH: Don’t overwork it and don’t add too much water. Add water as you go, take your time and don’t freak out.

HC: It depends on what you’re making and what your filling is. A lot of people would say flakiness, but it’s not always that. For a pie it would be flakiness, but for the linzertorte, the nuts add flavor and another component to the filling.

WF: What’s your favorite D.C. restaurant?

RH: Citronelle is awesome. Also, the sushi guy at Sticky Rice, Tommy, does some pretty interesting things with fish.

HC: Montmartre, Palena and Restaurant Eve are fantastic. I just had a bunch of Nathan Anda’s sopressata and other meats he’s doing at Red Apron—it’s incredible when someone is so passionate about something.

WF: Cupcake joints are everywhere, and the lines are out the door. As industry insiders, can you give us a few words on the cupcake trend?

RH: Cupcakes are overrated.

HC: Cupcakes, really?

WF: Ha! Touché. So apple pie is in, cupcakes are out. One last question—how do you like to wash down your dessert?

RH: Milk, coffee, beer, whiskey—whatever. Whiskey and beer go really good with pie, sweet or savory.

HC: It depends—everything or anything—nothing, depending on what it is. Anything goes, from coffee and milk to bourbon and bubbles.

Dangerously Delicious Pies, 1339 H St., NE; 202/398-PIES;dangerouslydeliciouspies.com

Hook, 3241 M St., NW; 202/625-4488; hookdc.com

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