Swiss Treats

It takes a leap of faith to toboggan by the light of the moon on a cold winter night. But our guide atop Switzerland’s Mt. Rigi promises us warm mugs of wine and gooey cheese fondue once we finish gliding beneath the stars, high above the villages that festoon the fairytale shores of Lake Lucerne below.

This mountain, less than an hour from Zurich, is most famous for its views, but we see only flickering lights through a miasma of chilly fog. Nevertheless, the thrill’s in the speed and the slow burn of frost on our cheeks as we safely navigate the well-lit trail.

Once we finish, we meet other night revelers who have trudged through the snow behind a guide who leads them by flashlight. Later, snuggled together in a rustic restaurant, we duel with fondue forks and argue over whose toboggan-steering skills are best. Together, heading down the mountain on Rigi’s famous cogwheel train, we make peace with the romance of it all.

I stay at Park Hotel Weggis (phw.ch), a turreted Relais & Chateau property on the banks of the lake. In summer, this hotel on the Swiss Riviera has a beach with bathers, palm trees, neatly assembled rows of lounge chairs and myriad decks for al fresco dining. But in winter, it’s a cozier place.

With an art nouveau façade and contemporary interiors, including a Lalique bar and Philippe Starck light fixtures, the Park Hotel Weggis might be an enchanted castle conjured by a magic wand to hover over the water—with white-glove service and all.

And then there’s Mt. Rigi, a prodigious bit of pine-covered nature, magical enough to attract the likes of Mark Twain, who visited and notoriously took three days to climb to the peak, recording it all uproariously in A Tramp Abroad. (To honor him, Mt. Rigi just opened a Mark Twain trail that marks his way up the mountain.)

While Twain’s account of Mt. Rigi still rings true (cows adorned with bells, superhuman Swiss hikers and such), he relates a summer visit. In winter, of course, Rigi smacks more of snow-covered Narnia. But that doesn’t stop the fun.

Besides evening tobogganing and hiking treks, daytime brings scores of activities to keep us busy during mostly sunlit days. Clearly marked snowshoe trails meander from the top, and groomed tracks draw cross-country enthusiasts. Snowboarders have their own slope, and skiers can choose between four lifts and roughly six miles of well-maintained runs.

In true storybook fashion, horse-drawn sleighs are the order of the day. And just in case you’ve forgotten an accessory, a mid-mountain shop rents and sells everything needed for winter recreation—from mittens to ski poles.

Picasso’s (Still-Living) Model

Just a 45-minute steamship ride away, medieval Lucerne lures us into town on the following day. In any season, I prefer to stay in a village like Weggis along the lake—or high in the mountains as at Hotel Pilatus Kulm (pilatus.ch/en/hotel-pilatus-kulm), which crowns Lucerne’s other famous peak, Mt. Pilatus.

Still, Lucerne nestles the water, scattering around its edges and up the mountain like a slowly spreading spill. Illusory, dreamy, it’s from a storybook’s pages, yet edgy enough to toy with the upshot of urbanity (festive bars, gourmet restaurants and the KKL, one of the world’s premier concert halls).

While trains and cars offer viable transport to the city, it’s these old-fashioned ships churning through the glassy stillness of the lake that define the Swiss Riviera to me. Slow and lumbering, the historic boats dawdle, forcing quietude and a pace I appreciate while on vacation. Embraced by soaring mountains on all sides, the lake feels as if it’s being held captive in a giant’s cupped hand. And the ships that pass from village to village are the giant’s beloved toys.

Consequently, by the time we disembark, we’ve been hypnotized by a pleasant, almost surreal tranquility.

In this mood, we head straight to the intimate and inspiring Rosengart Collection (rosengart.ch)—simply my favorite museum in the world, and a warm way to spend a cold winter day.

Just steps from the lake, the collection has more than 200 works by some of the 20th century’s most renowned masters. You’ll find Picasso, Klee, Chagall, Seurat, Modigliani and more, all ingeniously curated by the museum’s doyenne, Madame Angela Rosengart.

Always on site, and turning 80 this year, the elegant Madame Rosengart posed five times for Picasso. Her portraits hang with other works in the airy former bank building she donated, along with the collection, to the city of Lucerne. Celebrating its 10th year in 2012, the museum continues to delight visitors, many of whom stumble upon it by accident.

Each time I visit, I’m moved by the number of people, both locals and visitors, who stop to shake Rosengart’s hand and thank her for sharing the works. In fact, despite the magnificence of the art (personally procured by Rosengart and her father, both art dealers), visitors are seduced the most by the chance to chat with Rosengart herself. They can’t resist asking her questions—and she loves to share stories—especially about Picasso, whom she knew well.

As we stare at Picasso’s “Self-Portrait as an Owl,” something the artist constructed from a David Douglas Duncan photograph, I ask Rosengart what the man was really like. “He was electrifying,” she says. “Those eyes were like X-rays—and they burned right through you.”

As Rosengart turns to take me on a tour of the museum, I can’t help but notice her eyes. They, too, are electrifying—and they burn right through me.

Where to Stay

Park Hotel Weggis (phw.ch; rooms starting at $436), below. With a Tibetan-themed spa, an award-winning restaurant (Spark), modern rooms and simply jaw-dropping views of the lake, this deluxe Swiss hotel in a quaint village with a beach is a bucket-list stay.

Hotel Pilatus Kulm (pilatus.ch/en/hotel-pilatus-kulm; rooms starting at $185). Topping Mt. Pilatus, this hotel has rooms with views that take in a panorama that includes 73 peaks. With room names like Dragon’s Nest, it’s an affable, rustic hotel that caters to nature lovers.

The Hotel (the-hotel.ch; rooms starting at $513), left. Near the Rosengart Collection, this hip hotel was designed by award-winning French architect Jean Nouvel. Unpretentious, born from an early-20th-century apartment building, the interiors are architectural marvels.

Renaissance Lucerne (renaissance-luzern.ch; rooms starting at $202). Part of Marriott’s brand that seeks to take historic structures with cultural gravitas and give them a shot of American style and service, albeit in a local way, this one succeeds with boutique chic in a former palace.

Palace Luzern (palace-luzern.ch/en; rooms from $302). On the lake, the grande dame of Lucerne has its own boat to take guests across the lake for concerts at the KKL concert hall. Lavish, old school, but totally revamped, it has a lovely spa and sits on the lake. Roll the credits—this one is the stuff of legend.

Lucerne Dining

From low-key schnitzel joints to nouveau gems, our favorite spots for dining around town:

Fondue House (fondue-house.ch). A cozy chalet-style restaurant in the heart of Lucerne, this one is full of atmosphere and offers a fondue-tasting menu.

Balances (balances.ch). Snazzy and stylish, this epicurean cafe has tables that overlook the river. Food is light and modern. Great place, too, for dessert and a coffee.

Old Swiss House (oldswisshouse.ch). An iconic stop for tourists and locals alike. This is the place to order Wiener schnitzel prepared tableside by the staff.

Restaurant 1871 (1871.ch). Step one: Sit on the terrace and enjoy views of Mt. Pilatus. Step two: Gush over neatly rendered plates of Mediterranean fare. Step three: Eat well, smile.

Scala Restaurant (match.hotel-montana.ch). Situated inside the art nouveau gem, The Hotel Montana. The property sits at the top of a hill high enough you’ll want to take the offered funicular. The contemporary space has fetching views and a menu to match.

More Info + Getting Around

myswitzerland.com, luzern.com

Consider buying a Swiss Pass (raileurope.com) for train, boat, bus travel, plus free museum access.

Getting There

Daily nonstop service to Zurich from Dulles
International on United Airlines.