Visit artist studio and exclusive exhibits (including the work of Ernesto Bertani, whose works include "De Corazon, above) as part of an artist insider tour in Buenos Aires.

On the Trail of Great Art (and Artists) in Buenos Aires

As fluid in movement as his colorful paintings, Argentine artist Ernesto Bertani whirls and swirls around his crowded atelier in the San Cristobal neighborhood of Buenos Aires. From behind doors, beneath tables and inside cabinets, he pulls paintings from storage, some dating back three decades.

As the artist lines the canvases against a wall, Bertani gestures at his work, passionately expounding on his motivations and motifs. Being with him in the room where he paints, wrapped in his passion and flanked by his hand-picked gallery, is like being a string on Itzhak Perlman’s violin or a pot in Thomas Keller’s kitchen. Bertani’s fervor is so contagious, I feel as though I could pick up a paintbrush and create miniature masterpieces just like him.

I visit Bertani as part of an itinerary I booked with Blue Parallel (blueparallel.com), an upscale, Latin America-focused outfitter that describes itself as a “bespoke travel boutique.” Translation: The company offers personalized programs and insider tours for people who travel often and know that the best way to understand and appreciate any locale is through the back door.

Taking advantage of myriad contacts, especially here in Buenos Aires, they create itineraries meant to take guests deeper through the layers—and all the way to the core—of a destination. In Bertani’s workshop, I not only have the chance for a tête-à-tête with one of Argentina’s most revered artists, I also learn via his work about social mores and the evolution of the political climate in Buenos Aires. Bertani, whose works sing with color and dazzle with mystery, poses questions about Argentine society while commenting on fear, prejudice and love.

Gallery Insider

But that’s not the only thing I do under the tutelage of my attentive and affable Blue Parallel guides while in Buenos Aires. Understanding that I’ve been to Buenos Aires before and seen the de rigueur sights, and comprehending my ardor for art, they design an art-heavy agenda that takes me to places around the city I’ve never been. That’s why I find myself on another day with exclusive access to the private rooms of the world-renowned Zurbaran Art Gallery.

Here, owner Ignacio Gutierrez Zaldivar, right, known to his friends as Nacho, gives me a tour of the inner sanctum. A powerhouse in the global art world, Zaldivar bought his first painting at age 13. Now, arguably Argentina’s premier collector and the author of hundreds of books about Argentina and art, Zaldivar’s gallery, located in the posh Recoleta neighborhood, exclusively represents some of the country’s best-known contemporary artists. To be here is to be awash in genius.

During my three days in Buenos Aires, I delve deep into the art world. I visit the Malba (malba.org.ar), known for its profound collection of modern Latin American works; explore the Fortabat Museum (coleccionfortabat.org.ar), a storehouse of international works from various eras; and meander through the eclectic Museum of Fine Arts (mnba.org.ar). I spend an afternoon in the home of a prominent art collector, sipping espresso and perusing his collection of art from the neo-figurative periods. 

From atelier to studio, I flit about Buenos

Aires, gaining access to normally out-of-reach venues and adding many new friends to my little black art book. But lest you think I leave Buenos Aires saturated with paint and sopping with esoteric repartee, be not afraid.

Blue Parallel knows how to stop a girl who can’t control her artistic appetite. To temper aesthetic obsessions, my expert guides supply other sensual diversion. They take me to Esquina Carlos Gardel (esquinacarlosgardel.com) to distract me with midnight tango.

So seduced am I by the brilliant costumes and sultry moves, I forget painting as an art form exists—for a few hours. Likewise, my able guides dilute my visual art fixation with regular feedings at some of Buenos Aires’ most diverting and satisfying eateries. We lunch at Piegari (piegari.com/ar), a hotbed of handcrafted Italian cuisine. In the Recoleta, we dine at Fervor (fervorbrasas.com.ar), known for its grilled meats, among voluble locals. And we tear into brilliant seafood at the mecca del mar, Sorrento (sorrentorestaurant.com.ar).

Wine, of course, becomes a close companion, too—lots of it, both red and white, from small vineyards across the Argentine countryside.

I won’t tell you whether I succumb, get caught up in the frenzy and actually purchase a painting. Suffice it to say, when I head to the airport to go home, my hands are full and my bags are pounds heavier.

And there’s that package that will be coming by express mail. I hurry home to make space on my walls.

Travel Details

Where to Stay

Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires (buenosaires.park.hyatt.com; from $338). On Avenida Alvear, amid the French heritage district of Recoleta, the hotel is steps away from the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires. The luxury ante is upped with an innovative, modern design and a private gallery. Beat jet lag at Ahín Wellness & Spa or linger with champagne in the romantic garden.

The Fierro (fierrohotel.com; from $150). Just opened, the chic spot, located in the Palermo ’hood, is a hidden gem. A value-packed boutique that includes breakfast, Wi-Fi and iPads for use during the stay, Fierro has fast gained fame for its celebrated chef, Herman Gipponi, and his signature restaurant on the ground floor. Come hungry, and pack your goggles for use in the 7th-floor terrace pool that overlooks Palermo.

Algodon (algodonmansion.com; from $450). A new kid on the Recoleta block, the mansion is less a hotel than a stay at your wealthy Uncle Juan’s city estate. Built in 1912, it oozes with French glamour fused with classy Argentine savoir faire. Hit the spa with its wine-inspired treatments, or settle into a leathery seat in the boozy bar and have your wine in a glass.

Faena Hotel + Universe (faenahotelanduniverse.com; from $369). Set in the gentrified docklands on the Este Waterfront in Puerto Madero, the hotel sits in a retrofitted grain factory. Utterly rococo, whimsical and even a bit hedonistic, it’s a haven of gild, velvet and Eva Peron portraits. Artists will feel they’ve come home when checking into this brainchild of edgy fashion designer Alan Faena. Take advantage of your Experience manager, a butler-cum-concierge who can plan your days around town.