Viceroy's spa and the "relaxation room."

Mile-High Perfection: Viceroy Snowmass

There are two definitions for “viceroy”: One is a royal official who runs a country, province or colony in the stead of a monarch. The other is a showy American butterfly resembling the monarch. And, oh boy, do both of these hold true at Viceroy Snowmass, the year-old resort in Colorado’s Pitkin County that could potentially uproot that other ski town’s reign as the place to be when the snow flies.

With a ruling location at base village and the design aesthetic of Jean-Michel Gathy (floor-to-ceiling aspen trees tied together as rustic doors; dining tables inlaid with shagreen, for starters), I’m compelled to hug every inch of the place. The powers that be are hedging their bets on the adage, “Build it and they will come.”

“There has never been an upscale property in the Snowmass area, and it has such an international draw,” says John Egelhoff, director of sales and marketing of the 173-room resort that was once destined to be a Westin before Viceroy Hotel Group swooped in and took charge. “It’s a great ski mountain, and why not have a great property at the base of the mountain?”

Exactly. Because when it comes to winter vacations, you can’t beat being right there and strapping on a snowboard and skating straight to the lift that ferries you up the mountain to long, glorious runs packed with the exact same powder you’ll see 12 miles down Route 82 (and a couple hundred feet lower) in Aspen, except without the insane lines.

When you cradle a gimlet, belly up to the 87-foot-long bar at the restaurant dubbed Eight K, a nod to Snowmass’ elevation, or bask in the glow of the silver-and-steel sculptural antler chandelier in the spa’s relaxation room after receiving a “facial journey” that you’re sure involved the feathers of angel wings—like me, you realize this place isn’t just about winter recreation.

But after a full day on the slopes and feeling full from multiple courses at Eight K, which has a solid dinner menu categorized in S, M and L dishes and punctuated by local and seasonal ingredients, the last thing I want to contend with is too much pep. And it seems that someone else’s music is leaking into my room and keeping me from a night of heavy REM sleep on sheets with a thread count in the high hundreds.

Yet, Bob Marley is coming from somewhere, and it’s starting to agitate me as it seeps into my studio.

But then I notice the lights have been dimmed to an appropriate bedtime glow. My oversized slippers that I’d kicked off before an immediate soak in the deep-dish tub upon arrival are graciously set out, ready for my aching arches, and I spy a small white ceramic bowl at the bedside filled with homemade chocolate something-somethings sprinkled with sea salt. That’s when I realize the music is emanating from the bedside radio.

Forget the Sub-Zero appliances in the rooms. Never mind the LEED Silver distinction (the hotel employs a director of sustainability, and workers were replacing LED lights in the lobby when I checked in). Who cares about getting fresh sushi at slopeside café Nest? (Though, admittedly, apres-ski sushi is terribly novel for hoi polloi like me.) Seriously, this might be the best turndown service ever.

“We want people to feel like they’re at home,” Egelhoff says. Check.

Getting There

Nonstop flights to Denver on Southwest and United Airlines from Washington Dulles International Airport and on Frontier and United Airlines from Ronald Reagan National Airport.

Getting Around

Hotel provides complimentary hourly transportation to Aspen; Roaring Fork Transit Agency provides free bus service to Aspen, Basalt, Carbondale and Glenwood Springs.

Not to miss

Aspen Winternational Audi FIS Alpine World Cup (Nov. 27-28), Aspen Mountain; speedy women compete in slalom and giant slalom races.

Wintersköl, Aspen/Snowmass (Jan. 14-17, 2011); more than 40 events, including a fashion show, uphill race and torchlight descent and fireworks. Takes place at Snowmass, Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands ski areas.

ESPN Winter X Games, Aspen Mountain (Jan. 27-30); 9th annual Winter X Games featuring redtop snowboarder Shaun White.