Mark Finkenstaedt
Gnocchi with braised pork at Graffiato from Chef Mike Isabella.
Sun, Aug 28, 2011
6 Places Not to Miss in February
Scaled-back menus and decor definitely don't mean limited taste and success on the plate for these new restaurants.
By David Hagedorn
When the economy went south and austerity replaced ostentation, restaurateurs caught on. First, they convinced us that concrete floors, brick walls, bare wooden tables and light bulbs hung in Mason jars from ceilings were stylish. Then they put away the giant chargers filled with tiny portions of foie gras, turned small plates into big bills and gave fast food an upgrade.
Now, we happily line up for $6 marrow bones, $10 chicken thighs, $14 tacos, $16 lobster rolls and $7 milkshakes with designer burgers, all slyly repackaged as comfort food.
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